Z a n z i b a r i -

Zanzibari Recipes

The following are recipes that use a variety of ingredients and culinary styles reflecting the cultural diversity found in local Zanzibari cuisine:

Break the Fast Date Nut Bread

Ramadan is a time in the Islamic religion when all Muslims fast from sunup to sundown for the period of one lunar cycle. This means no food, no water, no cigarettes and no sex during the day for twenty-eight days. The truly orthodox will also not swallow and spend the day spitting. The reasoning behind this self-deprivation is to give people a chance to contemplate those less fortunate than themselves. By experiencing hunger, you will learn to be more sympathetic to the poor who often do not have enough food. "Futare" is the meal at sunset which is eaten when the fast is broken. It traditionally begins with a cup of strong Arabic coffee and is then followed by dates, a symbolic sweet treat that is eaten to remind the faster of his good fortunes. The rest of the meal is usually a rice pilau with fish or meat, cassava or sweet potatoes, and coconut flavored vegetables. The following is a passage from a letter I wrote a couple of years ago describing my first Ramadan in Zanzibar. I think still captures the feeling of the holiday in the Stonetown. "I am looking forward to Ramadan this year from a photographer's point of view since there is a photo I didn't take last year that I've been regretting ever since. Picture the narrow street outside of my house, a mixture of cement, cobblestones and dirt. Along the sides of the old limestone buildings are barazas, benches which are built into the walls. It's 6:45 p.m. and all of the wazee (old men) are sitting anxiously, quietly. The sun is setting and although it can't be seen as it sinks behind the Stonetown, the light is noticeably softening and slowly fades. Suddenly the serenity is interrupted by a loud foghorn echoing throughout the town--the signal that the day is officially over. A cheer goes up from the children as they impatiently stuff dates into their cheeks. But along my street where the old men sit, it is not dates the old men reach for as the foghorn sounds. In unison, twenty to thirty men take their lighters, or matches, and ignite the cigarettes which were already awaiting impatiently in their lips. A small cloud of smoke rises through the din and I wonder if their sentiment of satisfaction can be portrayed on film as they all, in unison, exhale that long first drag."

INGREDIENTS 1 CUP CHOPPED DATES 1 CUP BOILING WATER 1 TEASPOON BAKING SODA 3/4 CUP SUGAR 5 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1 EGG 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 2 CUPS FLOUR 1/2 CUP COARSELY CHOPPED NUTS 1 TEASPOON VANILLA EXTRACT DIRECTIONS Pour boiling water over the dates and baking soda. Let cool. Cream sugar, butter, and eggs. Sift salt with flour and mix into butter mixture. Add vanilla, nuts, and the date mixture. Bake in a loaf pan in a moderate oven for approximately 45 minutes until golden and top springs back when touched.

SORPOTEL

Maria, a Goan friend and fantastic cook, brought me a bowl full of Sorpotel tosample, but refused to tell me what it was until after I had eaten it. Good thing, because if she had told me it was a stew of beef tongue, heart, liver, and pork I probably never would have tasted it which really would have been a mistake. The meat was so tender it melted in my mouth. It had quite a spicy kick to it, but also a complex flavor that was unique from any curry or masala I've ever tasted. If you're ever in Zanzibar, be sure to stop in CHIT CHAT, Maria's restaurant and order the Sorpotel or one of the other Goan dishes on the menu. Otherwise try the following recipe which is a MUST if you enjoy spicy food. (If you're not feeling adventurous enough to try the tongue, heart or liver, substitute beef or pork for a still delicious version.

INGREDIENTS 1 POUND BEEF (TONGUE, IF AVAILABLE) 1 POUND PORK 1 POUND LIVER 1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS 1 TEASPOON WHOLE BLACK PEPPER CORNS 1 TEASPOON CINNAMON 4 WHOLE CLOVES 1 TEASPOON CORIANDER SEEDS 1 TEASPOON TURMERIC 8-12 DRIED CHILI PEPPERS 3 MEDIUM ONIONS, FINELY CHOPPED 2 INCH PIECE FRESH GINGER, GRATED 1 FULL HEAD OF GARLIC, CLEANED AND MINCED 1 TABLESPOON TAMARIND PASTE 1/4 CUP VINEGAR DIRECTIONS Place meat in a sauce pan and cover with water. Boil until the meat is cooked through and remove from heat. Cool and reserve the water. Once the meat is cool enough to handle, cut it into half inch squares. Place cumin, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, and chilies in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. Grind together. Add tamarind and enough vinegar to form a paste. Fry the onion, garlic, and ginger in a large saucepan. When the onions are soft, stir in the spice paste. Continue cooking until the onions and spices are well combined. Add the meat and the remaining vinegar and simmer for at least one hour.

MANGO COBBLER WITH CASHEW-CINNAMON CRUNCH TOPPING

SPICE ISLAND SPICE CAKE

BATTERED PEPPER SHARK

OYSTERS ALLA MATEMWE

MEAT PILAU

Oilau rice is the most traditional dish in Zanzibar, and is served at all weddings, ceremonies, and holidays. Whenever I'm catering a large party or taking my staff on a picnic, I order a huge amount of pilau to take along. The local pilau restaurant accepts its orders, not by how many people you want to serve, but by how many kilos of rice you want them to cook. It comes made in a giant copper hour-glass shaped pilau pan. To eat, people sit around in a circle around a large platter that's been piled up with pilau and, using their right hands as utensils, eat communally. This togetherness makes the meal even more of a celebration, since not only do you get to spend time with friends gossiping and eating, but there are also no dishes to clean up after the party. SALAD ACCOMPANIMENT: 2 LARGE TOMATOES, SLICED 1 CUCUMBER THINLY SLICED 1 LARGE PURPLE ONION, THINLY SLICED 2 LIMES OR 1/2 CUP VINEGAR 1TABLESPOON SUGAR 1 BUNCH CILANTRO (OPTIONAL) Slice the onions, place in a shallow dish, and marinate for at least one and up to four hours, in either the vinegar or lime juice and sugar. To serve, arrange tomato and cucumber slices on a plate, top with onions and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper as desired.

INGREDIENTS 1 POUND GOAT MEAT (OR SUBSTITUTE 1 POUND LAMB OR BEEF) 3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL A PINCH OF EACH OF THE FOLLOWING: GROUND CINNAMON, GROUND BLACK PEPPER, GROUND CUMIN AND SALT 2 BAKING POTATOES, PEELED 1 LARGE ONION 5-6 CLOVES GARLIC 1 TWO INCH PIECE OF FRESH GINGER 1-2 CINNAMON STICKS (TWO SMALL, ONE IF LARGE) 1 TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS 20 BLACK PEPPERCORNS 10 CARDAMOM PODS 15 WHOLE CLOVES 1-2 TEASPOONS SALT 2 CUPS RICE 1 CAN COCONUT MILK DIRECTIONS Cut meat into one and a half inch cubes. Heat two tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan. Add the meat and the list of "a pinch of" spices, and stir until meat has browned. Remove meat from skillet, leaving remaining oil and drippings in the pan. Finely chop onion. Cut the potatoes into 1 1/2 inch chunks. Peel garlic and ginger. Cut ginger into small chunks and place in a mortar and pestle or food processor together with the garlic, cumin, black pepper corns, cardamom pods and cloves. Pound (or process in the case of a food processor) until the garlic and ginger are a paste and all the spices are ground. Add remaining tablespoon of oil to the pan, heat, and sauté onions until soft. Add garlic-ginger mixture and stir. Add rice and cook for approximately two minutes, stirring constantly. Add two and a half cups water. Bring to a rolling boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer until water has all been absorbed. Traditionally the pilau is made in advance and then baked, not only to keep it warm, but so that a brown, crunchy layer forms on both the top and the bottom of the dish. This is a delicacy, much like the crunchy skin of the turkey at thanksgiving.

BOKU-BOKU

Boku-boku is a Zanzibari dish made for special occasions, particularly when someone is returning from a Haj, the Islamic pilgrimage to Mecca. Before the arrival of spice grinders on the Island, boku-boku was very labor intensive since all of the wheat had to be ground by hand. It also requires a long time to cook, an expensive prospect when using charcoal or wood burning stoves. In a Western kitchen, however, boku-boku is relatively simple to prepare and is definitely something out of the ordinary. This dish was taught to me at my friend Madawa's house, located just behind his spice shop. His three wives were my instructors, and a number of his many Children took part in the cooking process. If you make it to Zanzibar, they will happily give you a cooking class and Madawa will then sell you all the spices you will need to take with you so you can re-create the dishes at home.

INGREDIENTS 3 CUPS WHOLE WHEAT, CLEANED 1-2 POUNDS STEWING BEEF 1 THREE INCH FINGER OF GINGER 1 TABLESPOON CUMIN 1 WHOLE HOT CHILI PEPPER SALT AND PEPPER 2-3 LARGE RIPE TOMATOES 1 LARGE RED ONION 1 LARGE WHITE ONION DIRECTIONS Measure 1 1/2 cups of the whole wheat and put in a large saucepan. Add 3 cups water and one teaspoon of salt. Cover, place on high heat, and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and continue cooking until wheat is soft, adding water as necessary (wheat should always be covered with water and should not dry out as when cooking rice). At the same time, place meat in a medium saucepan. Add ginger, which has been cut into chunks, cumin, whole chili pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Add enough water to cover meat, cover sauce pan, and place over high heat. Once boiling, reduce to a simmer and cook until meat is soft and tender, again adding water as necessary. Place 1/2 of the remaining wheat in a food mill or spice grinder. Grind until wheat is broken, but not powdered. Add to the wheat which is now soft, adding enough water to make a soft, oatmeal type mixture. Continue cooking and stirring over medium heat. While it is cooking, grind the remaining wheat until it is flour. Add this to the wheat mixture, adding enough water to keep the soft, oatmeal texture. Cook for 20-30 minutes. Add meat mixture, including remaining liquid. Stir together and cook until the mixture is thick, but not dry. Finished Boku-Boku is a bit pasty and sticky, and is eaten with your hands. Serve it on a big platter topped with onions that have been fried until crispy. Some people eat Boku-Boku with a salad made of sliced onions, tomatoes, and turnip greens. Others eat Boku-Boku topped with sugar (yes, SUGAR -- try it, you might be pleasantly surprised!).

CURRIED FISHCAKES WITH CHUTNEY YOGURT SAUCE

YOGURT CHUTNEY DIPPING SAUCE